Jeff Clark is a surfing legend. He discovered the huge wave surfing site Mavericks in California, has surfed there 40 years, and has been featured in several super cool surfing movies. I was reminded of his eloquence and deep insights into managing moving mass by an article in this month’s The Red Bulletin magazine.
He also is quoted in the article as saying:
You could break something, you could lose your life. That’s not why I’m in it. I surf big waves because I am motivated and excited to dance with that power and make it back successfully to the channel.
Excited to dance with the power. Sounds a lot like flying.
Want more? This YouTube video by Sophia Silva is not a cleverly-edited 60-minutes interview, but it feels real. Like it’s you sitting next to Jeff. And he covers lots of ground including conquering the mind, motivation, play, power, limits, awareness, integration, how every wave is different, flow, becoming one with what you are doing, feel the nature of the wave, focus, passion and anticipating his reaction to the unknown.